How Columbus Became One of the Midwest's Most Interesting Food Cities

An immigrant story

By Nicholas Gill

Around the corner from the Ohio Department of Taxation’s offices on the north side of Columbus, in the shell of an old fast food restaurant, sits a charcoal-fired, eight-spit, 450-degree Hermanos Ruiz oven, imported from Peru.

Peruvian native Alberto Denegri’s father-in-law used it briefly at a …

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