St. Elmo's Fire

At Indy’s most classic steakhouse, the incendiary shrimp cocktail steals the show

By Julia Spalding

St. Elmo Steak House is an essential fine-dining establishment in downtown Indianapolis, with valets at the curb and career servers dressed in black vests and bow ties. The 118-year-old restaurant’s claim to fame—more than its dry-aged steaks or its 2012 salute from the James Beard Foundation, which deemed it one of America’s Classics—i…

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